Fly Rods – Buyers Guide

Rod technology has advanced almost beyond recognition during the last 50 years or so. Now for relatively little cash it is possible to purchase a super-light, multi sectioned product complete with a rod tube.

High on our list of favourites are the Hardy Demon, Orvis Helios, Greys XF2 Streamflex and Greys Platinum XD Comp. If you are just getting into fishing then the Greys GRXi is hard to beat and if you are out to buy the rod of a lifetime it is hard not to recommend the brand new Hardy SINTRIX™ Zenith and Proaxis ranges.  However buying a fly rod should never be about marketing gloss or taking a chance; in fact that goes for any of the equipment you buy.  This simple guide should help you make the right choice and if you require further information please use the contact form.

ROD LENGTH

It may sound obvious but purchasing the right length of rod is critical to ensuring your overall enjoyment and as I always say, “that’s is what it is all about!” Head to your venue you with the right tool for the job and you will almost certainly enjoy your experience.  So what is the right length?  Preference can play a part so please do not take my suggestions as absolute but use them as a general guide.

• Below 7’0″ : Specialist small stream / brook rods.  Ideal for casting small flies in enclosed conditions using fine leaders.  Generally employed to target small Wild Brown Trout and Grayling although experienced anglers will also tackle larger specimens using short rods.

• 7’0″ – 8’6″ : Small Stream & Brook Rods.  Not quite so specialised; an 8’0″ being the benchmark length for river anglers who like to adopt a light line upstream dry fly approach.  8’6″ is gaining popularity on the chalkstream scene.  There are also some short saltwater fly rods beginning to appear on the market such as the new one piece Hardy SINTRIX Proaxis range coming in at 8’10″

• 9’0″ : There are many rods within this length range offering a multitude of uses, dependant on line weight (more of that later).  Starting with 9’0″ rods for freshwater this is certainly the most popular length for chalk streams and I would recommend this over and above shorter models, I just like the extra length/reach available.  There is a crossover here too as many anglers use 9’0″ rods for “small” stillwater use.  Saltwater anglers will be very familiar with this length, even rods aimed at serious species such as Tarpon are rarely longer than 9’0″.  All sorts of reasons are used to justify this including leverage and high line speed generation.

• 9’6″ – 10’0″ : In the UK this is the standard length used on large still waters such as lakes, reservoirs and lochs.  9’6″ has become particularly favourable with bank anglers.  10’0″ still water rods are widely employed by boat anglers, especially competition anglers looking for greater control of their flies which are often cast/fished while sat down.  The extra length also allows for the use of long leaders.  The competition scene is also responsible for the recent upsurge in the popularity of 10’0″ light line rods being used for Czech Nymph style tactics when fishing for species such as Grayling.

• 11’0″ – 12’0″ : There are some “super specialist” ultra light line 11’0″ rods appearing on the market.  This length can also be popular with Irish/Scottish loch anglers targeting Sea Trout or practicing traditional “loch style” with bushy surface flies.  In the last few years there has also been a crop of lightweight Double Handers in this range and Switch Rods which can be fished with one or two hands, aimed at Salmon / Sea Trout / Steelhead anglers.

• 13’0″ – 15’0″ : Double Hand rods for Salmon / Sea Trout / Steelhead etc.  Pick length based on size of river, size of average fish encountered and weight of line, sinking tips etc., which will be used.  For example smaller spate rivers such as the River Exe in Somerset / Devon would usually be tackled with a 13’0″ – 14’0″ example while the larger Scottish rivers such as the Tay / Spey / Tweed usually require a 15’0″ rod.

ROD “LINE” WEIGHT

So we have looked at length basics but of extreme importance is the question of “weight”.  Now the weight to which I refer is not based around how the rod “feels” in the hand.  This varies enormously from manufacturer to manufacturer and is very largely based on personal preference.  It is is true to say that generally the more cash we hand over the lighter the rod will be, the Hardy SINTRIX range and Orvis Helios being perfect examples of high end ultra light blanks.

I digress.  The issue of “line” weight is extremely important based around the venue to be fished, weight of leader, size of fly and also it is imperative to match your line to your rod.  What does this mean?  Well, check near the cork handle of most rods on the market and the line weight should be stamped on the blank (along with the length)  If you can’t see this information my advice would be to steer well clear.  Below follows a general guide to which line weights suit which venues, fish and methods.

• Lines #0 – #3 : I would refer to these as “super specialist” rods aimed directly at river anglers.  Very short and long rods have been produced to cast these lines allowing us to fish with gossamer leaders and minute flies tied on fine wire hooks.  Brilliant where gentle presentation is required during reasonable weather conditions.  No fun in any kind of wind, inefficient if casting heavy bugs / nymphs any distance and definitely not for beginners.

• Lines #4 – #6 : Make no mistake, these are light lines.  So what do I mean light?  Lines are each given a number, the higher the number, the heavier the line.  Check the rest of the buyers guide below and this will start to make sense (and the full line buyers guide coming online soon for even more).  In this instance a #4 is a pretty standard River fishing line, the #5 coming in a close second and especially when cast using a 9’0″ rod.  If a little more distance is required and the ability to throw slightly larger flies then go for a rod that takes a #6 line, a good choice for small stillwaters.  There are some specialist saltwater rods on the market made to carry a #6 for light-line Bonefishing on shallow flats.

• Lines #7 – #8 : Rods carrying these lines are generally aimed at the still water market in the UK, although river anglers abroad may use heavier lines to cast large flies such as Cicadas.  A 9’6″ #7 is a great large stillwater rod and a #8 will do well in windy conditions, casting large flies with ease at distance so long as technique is incorporated of course!  Use a 10’0″ #8 for Salmon with confidence on the smaller spate rivers.  9’0″ #8 rods are ideal for Bonefish, have a fairly strong European saltwater fly fishing following and will also deal with smaller Pike flies / Pike.

• Lines #9 – 11 : A super heavy stillwater rod may take a #9 but this would mainly be shooting head work, early season and poor weather conditions.  Rods capable of throwing this weight of line are generally Double Handed and aimed at Salmon / Sea Trout / Steelhead or developed for the Saltwater market.  Use a 9’0″ #9 in strong winds for Bonefish or when casting larger flies.  I go for a #10 these days when I am after Pike as it will deal with the large flies required and a 9’0″ #10 is widely regarded as a good choice for Permit.

• Lines #12 and above : Ultra heavy double handers or super powerful short rod blanks are designed around these heavier lines.  Probably the most common use would be a 9’0″ #12 for Tarpon and even 9’0″ #14 for the growing popularity in hard core species such as Giant Trevally or GTs for short.

ROD ACTION

I am often quizzed regarding what “rod action” means.  In a nutshell it is the amount of flex within the blank.  There are thousands of paragraphs regarding the subject in print and online so a few searches will no doubt uncover a wealth of info.  Below I have simplified the main actions but in all honesty I would recommend any angler looking to purchase a new rod (and especially those about to part with serious wedge) “try their rod before they buy it”.  Just because it is expensive does not mean it will suit you and if you happen to be new to the game then the modern “fast” action could prove to be more of a hindrance than a help.  So here we go … rod action!

• Soft / Through : Says it on the tin!  Personally I seriously hate soft rods, so much so I call them noodles.  Old carbon fibre rods tended to be on the “noodley” side for my liking.  But that’s me.  There are some very expensive soft rods out there and specialist tools too.  Take the Hardy Classic range of Fibre Glass rods, superb for short casts in tight spots.  The soft rod will also protect light leaders and provide some good sport, even with small fish.  A very smooth “relaxed” cast will be needed coupled with good timing to get the best out of a soft through action rod.  There are a crop of specialist soft action rods coming on to the market in lengths of over 10′ designed to fish nymphs and New Zealand style techniques with ultimate control.

• Middle to Tip : This action will allow the rod blank to flex from about midway down the blank and is widely regarded as the best rod for anglers learning how to fly cast for the first time.  A great deal of rods are built around the middle to tip format as it is so popular, especially those in the £100 to £300 price points.  Why is it so good?  Well timing need not be absolutely spot on and this rod action will perform.  Don’t get me wrong, it is no miracle worker either, good casting technique is paramount to success whatever the “action”.  If a rod has been well designed around this format there is no doubting the enjoyment to be gained from using it, a kind of easy casting tool of you like.  Pick of the middle to tip rods out there right now would be the Greys GRXi + (which is fast – middle to tip – more below!) and I also have a particular soft spot for Hardy Demons.

• Fast / Stiff : I prefer fast action rods, mainly because I have grown up using them and because they suit my style.  Fast action rods, well “good” fast action rods are often expensive.  Some manufacturers attempt to bring a quick recovering fast action product to market but end up with a “poker”.  Pokers are lifeless, often heavy and not a lot of fun.  But, get it right and fast action rods will help to create tight loops, improve line speed beyond belief and provide a great deal of accuracy.  However in the wrong hands even an expensive fast action rod will feel terrible to the end user.  Miss time by even a fraction and things will go wrong because the fast action will “load” and recover super quickly.  If some of these terms do not make sense then fast action rods are probably not for you right now although as I have said previously it is extremely wise to try the rod you hanker after before you buy it.  So many people make the mistake of reading the “formula one” style marketing shpeel, shell out their hard earned and then become mystified (frustrated, annoyed and probably rather angry) by a few feet of very expensive carbon which is doing little to improve their day!

So, there is a little more to fly rods than may meet the eye!  The above is not an exhaustive guide and skirts around various points but the key information is present.  To sum up; pick a suitable length and line weight for your species / venue and then delve into the world of rod actions.  There are all sorts of flex systems out there now and a bunch of other information but I will remind you once again that purchasing a fly rod is very much down to personal preference.  Good luck and if I or any of my team can be of further assistance please don’t hesitate to contact us here.